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When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.